Have you ever been
walking down the sidewalk, smelt a neighbor’s BBQ and been instantly filled
with nostalgia from memories of your own BBQ? Maybe you’re sitting in a
restaurant and the family next to you orders mac n’ cheese, right there and
then you remember your second grade babysitter and the mac n’ cheese she used
to make you. Food is a powerful thing that can stimulate memories and feelings
of the past as well as allow a person to recreate those times. I plan to
address how food is used as a connector between people, places and times
through personal experiences, experiences of others and through scholarly
research.
It’s 7am and the sun
has just emerged over the horizon as I unzip my tent and am greeted by the
scent of a smoldering fire. Atop the fire sits a grate and a five gallon pot
that will soon produce breakfast. As Beau stirs the contents of the pot, I find
my stool around the fire and adjust to the fact that I am now awake. After a
short while the pot is transferred from the fire and onto the metal table. As
he calls out “breakfast is served!” the rest of the team emerges from their
tents and makes their way into the breakfast line.
First up there is of
course the bowls, followed by the main dish of Jungle Oats which is an African
brand of oatmeal. Then there is an assortment of add-ins: apples, peaches,
peanut butter and sugar, but not just any sugar, the sea salt of the sugar
world. Once my oatmeal creation is done I find my way back to my stool, sitting
in the sand. Now it is time to begin the delicious dive into my oatmeal. As I
stir the apples into the oatmeal, steam surges out of the bowl. The cool crunch
of the apples combined with the hot gush of the oatmeal is the ideal
combination. Not too soupy but not too thick, my oatmeal is the perfect
consistency and tastes as good as it looks.
The scene I described
above comes from time spent in Africa. A group of twelve of us from my church
partook in this mission’s trip last summer, spending fifteen days in Zambia and
that was the scene we witnessed and the meal we experienced every morning. As
the trip drew to a close, many people were sick of the oatmeal, hoping to never
see another oat again; after all we had been eating oatmeal every
day for the past fifteen days, but
some, like me, didn’t want to leave the Jungle Oats behind. Dwight even went as
far as to buy five boxes of Jungle Oats to shove into his suitcase and
bring back to the states.
Today
when I eat oatmeal it brings me back to a time of wonderful memories. But why,
what is it about oatmeal that transcends time and location to bring me back to
Africa? Sutton, an associate professor of sociocultural anthropology, argues
that it’s synesthesia that allows
food to have such power in regards to memory. Sutton describes synesthesia as a
“crossing of experiences from different sensory registers (i.e., taste, smell,
hearing).” Agreeably, Holtzman argues, “the sensuality of eating transmits
powerful mnemonic clues, principally through smells and tastes” (372). When
eating food you can taste it, smell it, and hear what it sounds like when you
bite into it. You can also feel, touch, and see it. Eating activates all of
your senses at one time. It is not just one sense that is working while you’re
eating, but all of them and that is a powerful combination. When you are eating
all of your senses are working together to create an experience and a memory.
Then when you see, eat, or smell that particular food again all of your senses
remember what they were doing at that time and catapult you back into those
memories.
Holtzman, associate professor of
anthropology, also argues, “The experience of food evokes recollection, which
is not simply cognitive but also emotional and physical” (365). Looking back on
Africa it was time full of once in a life
time experiences: petting a zebra, going on safari and peeing on bats; but more
than that it was a time of bonding, of feeling terrified and comfortable at the
same time, of feeling guided, of having purpose, of being free. I was blissful
in Africa, it was a great time in my life and I ate oatmeal every single of one
the days that I felt that way. I felt all those things in tandem with eating
oatmeal. To this day I still associate oatmeal with those feelings and am
filled with nostalgia when I eat it even though almost a year has gone by.
Food
can also create hope of being able to go back to a time of great memories. I
chose to leave Africa and the oatmeal reminds me of the wonderful times.
However, there are those who had no choice but to leave. Prisoners are an
example of this. They had no choice but to leave the place where they created
marvelous memories. Now they are inmates at a county facility. An article for Gastronomica entitled, “Breaking Bread
with Spread” researches the creation of spreads in a San Francisco County Jail.
Spreads are made by inmates from items they bought in the jail’s store. They
start with a base item such as ramen noodles then add different chips, jellies
and jerky to create a midnight snack. Each inmate creates a different version
of the spread specific to their tastes and preferences. After a long day in
jail, with unsatisfying food, the inmates create spreads to ease their hunger
before going to sleep (Cate).
One
inmate Max Hackett describes the process of creating spreads as “‘bring myself as
much out of jail as possible’” (Cate, 24). Creating the spreads is a way to
escape from jail and spend some time dreaming in the outside world. Inmates can
create spreads that resemble dishes from their favorite restaurants or home. For
example, Max Hackett creates spreads that resemble his favorite Vietnamese
restaurant (Cate, 24). While in jail inmates are told what to do, how to do it,
and where to be every minute of every day. On top of that they are told what to
eat and when to eat it. So much of their lives is out of their control.
However, when making their spreads they can create anything they can imagine,
any way they want. They are reminded of what it is like on the outside, what it
means to have control of things. Similarly, they can create food that reminds
them of their home, it isn’t one size fits all food but something unique to
them. For example, a Chinese inmate “has perfected his own Asian-style spread
making technique. It involves steaming rather than boiling the ramen noodles”
(Cate, 19). Creating spreads not only gives the inmates something to do but it
reminds them of the freedom and creativity they were allowed to have on the
outside and gives them hope that one day the will be able to return to those
times.
Immigrants
and refugees are another example of people using food to stay connected to
memories and places. They either choose to leave their home or are forced out,
having to leave everything behind and flee to another country. In this case
they have no way to go back to where they came from. The only connection they
have is through what they can make. Immigrants and refugees then use cooking as
a way to be connected to and remember the good times. They shop at stores that
carry their native foods and create food from their homeland in order to remember.
This foods they make connect them to the memories they made and emotions felt
while in their homeland.
The
article “Gastropoetics of South Indian Diaspora” discusses the South Indian
refugees who attend ethnic markets to not only get groceries but to engage with
the representations of their homeland. The smells and sounds at the ethnic
markets resemble those from the refugees’ home nations. The food being sold and
cooked stimulates the all their senses and sends these refugees back to times
when they were home and the memories associated with being there (Holtzman,
367).
Similar
to inmates and immigrants, people who have lost a loved one use food as a way
to remember. In his article “Eating White” Geoff Nicholson tells of a meal he eats on occasion. The meal
consists of a cheese sandwich on white bread with a cold glass of milk (21).
There is nothing special in this meal nor is it the latest food trend. However
it was a meal that he and his mother shared on a regular basis. His mother
loved white food and only ate food of a similar color scheme. Now, his mother
being gone, Geoff partakes in this meal in order to remember his mother. The
types of food and its color catapults Geoff back to a time of sharing love with
his mother.
In
conclusion, food offers a combination of smell and taste that stimulates
memories and can send a person back in time to those memories. Whether it’s a
stateside traveler remembering her African mornings, an inmate creating snacks
to remember the freedom associated with being on the outside, or a refugee
making diners reminiscent of their homeland, everybody uses food to remember
the good times. People use food as an escape, and food has a powerful enough sensuality to it in order to make that
possible.
Works
Cited
Cate, Sandra.
"Breaking Bread with a Spread." Gastronomica:
The Journal of Food and Culture 8.3
(2008): 17-24. Web. 19 Apr. 2013.
Holtzman, Jon D.
"Food and Memory." Annual Review of Anthropology (2006):
361-78. Annual Reviews. Web. 19 Apr. 2013.
Nicholson, Geoff.
"Eating White." Gastronomica:
The Journal of Food and Culture 10
(2010): 21-23. Web. 20 Apr. 2013.
Sutton, David.
"David Sutton - Rembrance of Repasts - Introduction." David Sutton - Rembrance of Repasts
- Introduction. Berg, 2001. Web. 19 Apr. 2013.